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alpe d'huez ski review, chalet solneige review, pet friendly accommodation alpe d'huez, pourchery alpe d'huez, skiing alpe d'huez, Vaujany station ski
The snow in the Pyrenees is still disappointing, so my husband (the skiing nut) masterminds a short trip over to Alpe d’Huez, a bustling ski resort near Grenoble. We pile skis, clothing, equipment and a slightly bemused spaniel into the car, and head off on the six hour journey from our house in Gascony.
On the way, we pass through Montpellier where the temperature is a mild and sunny 19 degrees. It’s hard to believe that in a few hours time we’ll be in a ski resort.
The chalet we’ve chosen is outside Alpe d’Huez, in a pretty satellite village called Pourchery. The chalet, the Solneige, is run by a lovely Dutch couple, Therese and Pieter. We’ve chosen it partly as the owners have their own resident dog, a sweet Golden Retriever named Yara, and they’re laid back about us leaving Monty in the room whilst we ski. Therese even offers to walk Monty for us during the day.
Pieter, Therese and daughter Karin outside the Chalet Solneige.
We all (including Monty) feel we’ve landed on our feet with our accommodation. Therese and Pieter are the perfect hosts, attentive without being intrusive. It’s hard to believe that they’ve only been running the place for a year, and had no previous experience in the hospitality industry. The meals are delicious and not too rich; my vegetarian options for the week include a homemade burger and a corn and mushroom casserole in white wine and cream. As the chalet isn’t full, Monty is allowed into the main living area – although Pieter does point out that this is subject to the other guests’ agreement. At the end of the visit, Monty’s taken quite a shine to Yara and is reluctant to leave her – well, gentlemen do prefer blondes.
Yara the chalet dog.
On the first day of skiing we tackle a range of slopes, including the famous black run Sarenne, said to be the longest run in the whole of the Alps. There’s plenty of snow, but we’re both finding it hard work. The runs we’ve chosen feature my personal least-favourite snow conditions – mounds of soft snow over ice. The top of the black run is scraped into moguls, and my legs are aching when we reach the bottom. I decline my husband’s kind offer to go back and try it again. We’re both exhausted when it’s time to leave the slopes, and we’ve still got to take Monty out for an hour’s walk.
Looking down into a 'lake of clouds'
On the second day, we’re feeling a little unenthusiastic, but the day goes well. The weather’s bright and sunny, and the thin layer of cloud that marred the lower slopes the day before has gone. Either the slopes are better pisted today, or I’m feeling stronger, and the skiing’s fast and smooth.
Up on the slopes - and the sun's shining!
A brief stop for lunch sees us at the Auberge d’Alpette, halfway down the green Carrelet slope. As we come off the slope and ski behind the restaurant, I misjudge the steepness of the corner and almost make a spectacular entrance amid the menu du jour.
We chose the restaurant thanks to a positive review in the Where to Ski and Snowboard Guide – and it’s justified. Our lunch of vegetable soup and crêpe with cheese and spinach arrives quickly and is delicious.
The view from the Auberge d'Alpette.
At the end of the day, we ski down the black La Fare run and take the cable car back up to Vaujany, where we’ve parked the car for the five minute drive back to the chalet. Monty’s there giving us ‘spaniel eyes’, so it’s off with the ski clothes and on with the walking boots. At least we’ve got the thought of Pieter’s delicious four course dinner to look forward to.
Snowfall at the Chalet Solneige
